. From the log of the Velsa. ch an event could happen in a nar-row river amid a numerous population, and learnedthat in rough weather these barges anchor when atug can do no more with them, and the crew go tobed and sleep. The water gradually washes in andwashes in, until the barge is suddenly and silentlyengulfed. Dutch phlegm! Corresponding to theirSabbatic phlegm, no doubt. Said the harbor-mas-ter: Yes, there is a load-line, but they never takesno notice of it in Holland; they just loads them uptill they wont hold any more. The fatalism of the working-classes everywhere 35 FROM THE LOG OF T
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. From the log of the Velsa. ch an event could happen in a nar-row river amid a numerous population, and learnedthat in rough weather these barges anchor when atug can do no more with them, and the crew go tobed and sleep. The water gradually washes in andwashes in, until the barge is suddenly and silentlyengulfed. Dutch phlegm! Corresponding to theirSabbatic phlegm, no doubt. Said the harbor-mas-ter: Yes, there is a load-line, but they never takesno notice of it in Holland; they just loads them uptill they wont hold any more. The fatalism of the working-classes everywhere 35 FROM THE LOG OF THE FELSA is perhaps the most utterly astounding of all humanphenomena. Thoughtful, I went off to examine the carvedchoir-stalls in the Groote Kerk. These choir-staUsare among the most lovely sights in Holland.Their free, fantastic beauty is ravishing and imfor-getable; they make you laugh with pleasure as youbehold them. I doubt not that they were executedby a rough-tongued man, in a dirty apron, withshocking finger-naUs. 36. THE ROAD IS WATER IN FRIESLAND CHAPTER III DUTCH WOEK WE passed through Rotterdam more thanonce, without seeing more of it than theamazing traffic of its river and its admirablezoological gardens full of chromatically inclinedparrots; but we stopped at a minor town close by, on a canal off the Meuse, Schiedam. Instinct musthave guided me, for the sociological interest ofSchiedam was not inconsiderable. Schiedam iscalled by the Dutch stinking Schiedam. I madea circuit of the town canals in the dinghy and con-vinced myself that the epithet was just and notmalicious. On the lengthy quays were a largenumber of very dignified gin distilleries, whose ar-chitecture was respectable and sometimes even verygood, dating from perhaps early in the last century.Each had a baptismal name, such as Liverpool, inscribed in large letters across its fa9ade. This 39 FROM THE LOG OF THE VELSA rendering decent and this glorification of gin con-stituted an impressive phenomenon. Bu